The Onboard Toolbox

!±8± The Onboard Toolbox

As all boat owners are probably aware, simply owning the boat is the first base goal: Next, if you don't want the thing to collapse gently around you and finally sink, you have got to keep it in good order. In other words, you have to maintain it. Usually, the end result is that the boat stays safe and keeps going, a bit like your car.

Whilst the word 'maintenance' is synonymous with 'work' there is usually the hard way to approach it or the easy way. The hard way is to grovel around in the dark, without the proper gear, using a kitchen knife to attempt to undo a screw that has been screwed tight enough to stop the undercarriage dropping off a Jumbo jet! This will not do. We have to be fully prepared for most scenarios and this is where a bloody good logical, sensible, onboard tool kit comes into the picture. I might add here, the emphasis is onboard. Not under any circumstances, to be taken ashore, to double up as gear for fixing the lawnmower or, God forbid, the fridge. This primary 'piece of equipment' may save you and your boat at some point in the future so it must always be at arm's reach, night and day, a friend in need, as it were.

If you were to take any two boats in a marina and do a spot check on their tool kits you may be in for a shock. All owners appear to have differing priorities when it comes to D.I.Y. onboard. Remember too, we learn as we live. If you see something that might save your bacon on a terrible night, buy it and add it to the stash without a second thought.

SOME BASICS (NOT NECESSARILY IN ORDER OF PRIORITY!)

Lighting - A rechargeable torch from someone like 'Kambrook' with thousands of candlepower units that can light every corner with stunning brilliance...even in daylight.

More lighting! - A 'miners lamp' type of headset torch can leave the hands free even in rough weather for tricky jobs.

Knife - A good sharp knife is a must. It matters not if the blade folds or is open, as long as it can cut well. A device for sharpening the blade is a must, like a Swiss tungsten steel 'Istor' for example (To be found in good hardware stores).

Scissors - In fact several different sizes, some throwaway, some good steel, they come in handy for all sorts of things and cut wire in a pinch.

Pliers - I like electrician's heavy-duty, insulated handles with cutting blades made from good steel. They are expensive but invaluable. A good back up are needle nose pliers at least four inches long.

Screwdrivers - Every one has a screwdriver on board, don't they? Trouble is, they are always too long, too short, bent and covered in grease or paint. Get a full-boxed set, flat bladed and Philips head and make sure they are at least 'Stanley' quality. Some people like reversible bladed types but beware the 'Taiwan terrors' that melt on contact with a screw head. Oh oh! Don't forget a small set of watchmaker's screwdrivers for those maddenly tiny screws that live in the back of electronic gear.

Hammers - Four different hammers are a priority. A nylon/rubber headed type for inflicting blows without damage, a small ball peen 'toffee hammer' type and a pointed 'ice pick' or welder's hammer for rust and scale. The last is a good heavy sensible hammer for serious thumping when required.

Vice Grips - Two pairs, one eight inch, good quality stainless and a small pair of needle nosed type for awkward corners. Don't be tempted to buy cheapo here, you will always regret the decision later.

Wrenches or adjustable spanners - Two or three types needed here. Cheapos wear quickly and allow play to ruin the holding quality of these tools. Two roughly the same size allow a nut and bolt to be undone. One really large one is handy for unexpected jobs such as loosening a tightening the gland nut on the stern tube or even the prop nut.

Drills - Two types here. One a cordless drill with a charger. Always use a keyless chuck. A drill without a chuck key is about as useless as the Titanic with an outboard motor. Note: If you have a cordless drill that the battery has died on, you can revive it by soldering two wires, positive and negative, onto the two battery terminals inside the drill handle. These wires can incorporate two alligator clips and be attached to a battery and the drill be used anywhere. Ensure the leads are at least a metre long. Finally, a decent set of metal twist drills with at least two spare small size drills should complete the set up for drilling. You can, if room allows, bring a hand drill for emergency use.

Spanners - It always seems like you have never got enough of the things. Ring spanners, metric and imperial, good quality, on a folding roll.

Electrical nylon ties - What a great invention these things are! Ensure you have several sizes from 30 cms to 5 cms long. They are lifesavers for just about every job where things need to be secured either permanently or temporarily. A quick snip with the pliers frees them instantly. I actually invested five bucks on a packet of 're-usable' ones but the ones I bought from Bunnings actually work loose... a great idea, but no cigar this time!

Adhesives - Several types are a must. Super glue tubes, at least two or three. A tube of silicon or similar. Also a tube of 3M 5200 marine glue. I have also found that the two-pack waterproof epoxy all purpose 'knead it' by Selleys is superb for all kinds of quick repairs. Especially in wet areas, it will even cure underwater... a must! (Note: They have several in their 'knead it' range so make sure you get the one that states AQUA for wet areas).

Tape - Masking tape, electrical, brown parcel tape and self-amalgamating tape for those 'must be dry' jobs.

Axe - A good axe for severing ropes, cables and breaking free in an emergency.

Lubricant - A can of grease and a can of moisture displacing lubricant like WD40. Also a small jar of petroleum jelly for such jobs as reluctant 'O' rings and hose pipes.

Hose Clamps - A plastic box bull of various size stainless steel hose clamps... as many as you can afford.

Electrical requirements - These can be many and varied but you can't go wrong with the basics. Good quality electrical connectors and crimping tools pay huge dividends in the long term reliability. A good pair of 'side cutters' with insulated handles for all size cables is also important for quick and efficient repairs. Red and black electrical cables (different amperages) and the means to solder them is really important, especially if cruising. A small butane or propane soldering torch (refillable) is advisable. Don't forget heat shrink tubing for waterproof joins and it is really important that an electrical 'multimeter' be purchased and a good book on how to identify and fix onboard electrical problems. (Don Casey's book on boat electrics called 'Sailboat Electrics Simplified' published by International Marine - McGraw Hill available from Boatbooks, (Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne would be a good guide). A working knowledge of how to understand and fix basic electrical faults could be the difference between disaster and success on any offshore trip. Also, don't forget the soldering wire, self fluxing is good for fast, efficient joins.

Today we are lucky to have access to really good cheap 240/12 volt invertors to run your power tools. The usual power tools can be carried onboard but we won't go into too much detail in this article about what to carry. Number one on my list however, would be an angle grinder/sander.

Hardware - This can vary enormously but should contain some of the following:

· Stainless wood screws (assorted)

· Stainless nuts, bolts and washers (assorted)

· Stainless split pins (assorted)

· Spare small size drills

· Fuses (if applicable)

· Bulbs for lights and torches

· Files, metal and assorted (needle files too)

· Iron or steel wire

· Plastic spring clips (large and small)

· G-clamps (assorted sizes)

Before you start writing.....I know that each and every person may have priorities but I have left to the very end two additions to the above so they may stick in your mind. One is a total must, the other a luxury, but nevertheless, worthy of note.

The absolute must is a set of serious bolt cutters for disengaging fallen rigging along with a good hacksaw and blades.

The luxury item that I love above all is my variable speed, Ryobi and Bosch grinder and sander. I can say they have saved me more time and effort sanding, cutting and repairing boats that I care to think of.....

Your onboard tool kit is more than a convenience, it is a total number one priority to be treated with respect and care. Ask a mate of mine, Kenny, who foolishly balanced his tool kit on the coaming whilst he unlocked a hatch after a break down at sea. After realising what the huge splash was, Kenny drifted for two days until he was discovered by chance. Kenny (whose box of tea bags went down with the tools) ruefully recalls that "Most people don't realise you can get fifteen cups of tea from a used tea bag"..... Personally, I think he was lucky, very lucky!

If you liked the cut of this article and would like Terry to write one for your magazine or newsletter simply contact http://www.dolphinboatplans.com or if you would like to read similar articles go to http://www.ezinearticles.com

The Onboard Toolbox

Eagle Safety Cans Sale Low Price Kirklands Store

How To Restore Picture Tube Without application a crt tester, restorer or rejuvenator

!±8± How To Restore Picture Tube Without application a crt tester, restorer or rejuvenator

Picture become weak or dim usually happen after the monitor have been used for many years. Again it depends on the quality of the picture tube or cathode ray tube (CRT). Some grade A CRT can last for many years, but for the lower grade one it can only last for couples of year. Don’t be surprise that I do come across picture tube that had gone dim in less than a year! If you switch on your monitor for 24 hours without turning it off, then expect the tube to become dim fast. Besides dim (weak emission) , CRT may also develop many problems such as open filament, short between cathode and heater, G1 and G2 short, poor gamma performance, stripped cathode and focus and G2 short. In this article, I’m going to touch on the weak emission problem only and show you a possible way to brighten up the picture tube.

The cathode ray determines the brightness and sharpness of a picture tube. Its electrons are emitted from the cathode surface into the cathode ray tube’s vacuum. The electrons then strike the screen in the form of a ray and cause it to shine. Weak or used up cathodes produce few electrons and emit weak electron rays. This causes the picture to become dark and fuzzy. Sometimes the cathode emission ceased due to a layer of contamination coating covers the cathode surface. This contamination prevents the electrons from leaving the cathode’s surface thus you get a dim picture.

In order to identify whether is the tube that cause the dim or from bad components, one can always use a CRT tester/meter to check it. Some call it CRT rejuvenator, CRT restorer and others named it as CRT regenerator. These testers are designed to test and check CRT and fix it if the picture tubes have problems. I personally owned two CRT testers- the BMR 2005 Muter regenerator and a less feature one I bought from Thailand. With the help of CRT tester, I can know if a picture tube is working or not. If you do not have one, don’t worry because by checking the voltage at the CRT socket pin outs, you will have some ideas if the CRT is good or bad.

From my experienced, I noticed that the older tube can be brightening up with the help of CRT tester but not for tubes that was made in the year 1994 and above. I suspect the getter (made of barium) inside the tube have been used up. The functions of getter inside the tube are to absorb gas that was release when the cathodes are heat up. If the getter fails to absorb the gas, then there is no point to restore a picture tube. I have brightened up many picture tubes with the help of CRT tester and some looks like a new tube. But somehow after one or two days the picture tube get dim again because the getter cannot absorb the gas and the gas will travels back to the cathode surface and turn it into carbonate. Electron emission will cease again. I even have tried some home made CRT restorer downloaded from the internet and the result is still the same-the picture tube will dim back after couples of days.

After done some research and experiment, I found that the best way to brighten up the tube is to increase the heater voltage. Normal heater or filament voltage is about 6.3 volt and if you increase the voltage to about 8 to 9 volts, this means the cathode will produce more electrons and thus the screen will become brighter. Bare in mind that do not apply any voltage that is higher than 9 volts to the heater otherwise the internal filament will burn out and broken. Once it is open then there will be no way to rescue it.

If the picture tube is heading to rubbish dump then there is no harm to try to restore it. About how long it will last, I cannot guarantee it. Some will last even more than two years and some only couples of weeks. Recently there was a badge of Compaq and Hp 15” monitor that have the symptom of blur display with bright picture. No matter how hard you try to adjust the focus adjustment at the back of flyback transformer, the picture still look slightly blurs. Using the methods above I had saved lots of picture tube (I don’t need to replace a second hand one to customer).

It is a simple modification and this only applies to the 14 and 15” monitor picture tube only. First you need to find which secondary output that have output from 12 to 15 volts. Once you have locate it, then solder a wire at the cathode pin of the diode and join it to the input pin of 7808 (output 8Volts) voltage regulator. Please don’t tap from the B+ voltage which is usually 45 volts and above and this may kill the 7808 IC because this IC can only withstand voltage up to 38 volts maximum. The current drawn from the 14 and 15” picture tube is less than the 17” tube and if you use this way to brighten up the 17” tube, the power supply may go into shutdown mode and sometimes will even lead to power blink.

I do know some technicians like to use the method of turning few rounds of wire at the flyback ferrite core to restore the brightness. This method can work in Television but not in Monitor. Computer monitors runs in many resolution and the higher the resolution the higher the B+ voltage and thus making the output voltage at the wire increased. This will lead to a sudden brightness and may shutdown the monitor. Even if it didn’t shutdown, the customer may get annoyed with the Monitor brightness (raster) whenever the customer change the monitor resolution.

Now solder the pin 2 of 7808 IC to cold ground and the output of 7808 IC pin 3 to the CRT heater point as shown in the picture. Remember to cut off the 6.3 volt supply line from the power supply because you don’t need it anymore. What you need is the 8 Volt supply to the filament in the picture tube. You can also connect a low ohm protection resistor in series to the heater point. Just in case if any short circuit happens the resistor will open circuit. Make sure you attach the 7808 IC to the heatsink, preferable the heatsink at the flyback transformer.

This method only work for tube that is slightly blur and not too dim picture. If a picture is very dim even if you raise the heater voltage to 12 volt, you still would not see a bright picture. As mentioned above there is no harm trying to modify it and who knows the tube can be brought to life and serve the customer for many years. Hope you enjoy the article.

How To Restore Picture Tube Without application a crt tester, restorer or rejuvenator

Dunlop Sp4000 Decide Now Vivitar Instruction Buy Online

Part 3 - Anne of the Island by Lucy Maud Montgomery (Chs 24-41)

!±8± Part 3 - Anne of the Island by Lucy Maud Montgomery (Chs 24-41)

Part 3. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Karen Savage. Playlist for Anne of the Island by Lucy Maud Montgomery: www.youtube.com

Part 3 - Anne of the Island by Lucy Maud Montgomery (Chs 24-41)

Apartments Northfield Mn Best Mk 101 Tile Saw Purchase

The Onboard Toolbox

!±8± The Onboard Toolbox

As all boat owners are probably aware, simply owning the boat is the first base goal: Next, if you don't want the thing to collapse gently around you and finally sink, you have got to keep it in good order. In other words, you have to maintain it. Usually, the end result is that the boat stays safe and keeps going, a bit like your car.

Whilst the word 'maintenance' is synonymous with 'work' there is usually the hard way to approach it or the easy way. The hard way is to grovel around in the dark, without the proper gear, using a kitchen knife to attempt to undo a screw that has been screwed tight enough to stop the undercarriage dropping off a Jumbo jet! This will not do. We have to be fully prepared for most scenarios and this is where a bloody good logical, sensible, onboard tool kit comes into the picture. I might add here, the emphasis is onboard. Not under any circumstances, to be taken ashore, to double up as gear for fixing the lawnmower or, God forbid, the fridge. This primary 'piece of equipment' may save you and your boat at some point in the future so it must always be at arm's reach, night and day, a friend in need, as it were.

If you were to take any two boats in a marina and do a spot check on their tool kits you may be in for a shock. All owners appear to have differing priorities when it comes to D.I.Y. onboard. Remember too, we learn as we live. If you see something that might save your bacon on a terrible night, buy it and add it to the stash without a second thought.

SOME BASICS (NOT NECESSARILY IN ORDER OF PRIORITY!)

Lighting - A rechargeable torch from someone like 'Kambrook' with thousands of candlepower units that can light every corner with stunning brilliance...even in daylight.

More lighting! - A 'miners lamp' type of headset torch can leave the hands free even in rough weather for tricky jobs.

Knife - A good sharp knife is a must. It matters not if the blade folds or is open, as long as it can cut well. A device for sharpening the blade is a must, like a Swiss tungsten steel 'Istor' for example (To be found in good hardware stores).

Scissors - In fact several different sizes, some throwaway, some good steel, they come in handy for all sorts of things and cut wire in a pinch.

Pliers - I like electrician's heavy-duty, insulated handles with cutting blades made from good steel. They are expensive but invaluable. A good back up are needle nose pliers at least four inches long.

Screwdrivers - Every one has a screwdriver on board, don't they? Trouble is, they are always too long, too short, bent and covered in grease or paint. Get a full-boxed set, flat bladed and Philips head and make sure they are at least 'Stanley' quality. Some people like reversible bladed types but beware the 'Taiwan terrors' that melt on contact with a screw head. Oh oh! Don't forget a small set of watchmaker's screwdrivers for those maddenly tiny screws that live in the back of electronic gear.

Hammers - Four different hammers are a priority. A nylon/rubber headed type for inflicting blows without damage, a small ball peen 'toffee hammer' type and a pointed 'ice pick' or welder's hammer for rust and scale. The last is a good heavy sensible hammer for serious thumping when required.

Vice Grips - Two pairs, one eight inch, good quality stainless and a small pair of needle nosed type for awkward corners. Don't be tempted to buy cheapo here, you will always regret the decision later.

Wrenches or adjustable spanners - Two or three types needed here. Cheapos wear quickly and allow play to ruin the holding quality of these tools. Two roughly the same size allow a nut and bolt to be undone. One really large one is handy for unexpected jobs such as loosening a tightening the gland nut on the stern tube or even the prop nut.

Drills - Two types here. One a cordless drill with a charger. Always use a keyless chuck. A drill without a chuck key is about as useless as the Titanic with an outboard motor. Note: If you have a cordless drill that the battery has died on, you can revive it by soldering two wires, positive and negative, onto the two battery terminals inside the drill handle. These wires can incorporate two alligator clips and be attached to a battery and the drill be used anywhere. Ensure the leads are at least a metre long. Finally, a decent set of metal twist drills with at least two spare small size drills should complete the set up for drilling. You can, if room allows, bring a hand drill for emergency use.

Spanners - It always seems like you have never got enough of the things. Ring spanners, metric and imperial, good quality, on a folding roll.

Electrical nylon ties - What a great invention these things are! Ensure you have several sizes from 30 cms to 5 cms long. They are lifesavers for just about every job where things need to be secured either permanently or temporarily. A quick snip with the pliers frees them instantly. I actually invested five bucks on a packet of 're-usable' ones but the ones I bought from Bunnings actually work loose... a great idea, but no cigar this time!

Adhesives - Several types are a must. Super glue tubes, at least two or three. A tube of silicon or similar. Also a tube of 3M 5200 marine glue. I have also found that the two-pack waterproof epoxy all purpose 'knead it' by Selleys is superb for all kinds of quick repairs. Especially in wet areas, it will even cure underwater... a must! (Note: They have several in their 'knead it' range so make sure you get the one that states AQUA for wet areas).

Tape - Masking tape, electrical, brown parcel tape and self-amalgamating tape for those 'must be dry' jobs.

Axe - A good axe for severing ropes, cables and breaking free in an emergency.

Lubricant - A can of grease and a can of moisture displacing lubricant like WD40. Also a small jar of petroleum jelly for such jobs as reluctant 'O' rings and hose pipes.

Hose Clamps - A plastic box bull of various size stainless steel hose clamps... as many as you can afford.

Electrical requirements - These can be many and varied but you can't go wrong with the basics. Good quality electrical connectors and crimping tools pay huge dividends in the long term reliability. A good pair of 'side cutters' with insulated handles for all size cables is also important for quick and efficient repairs. Red and black electrical cables (different amperages) and the means to solder them is really important, especially if cruising. A small butane or propane soldering torch (refillable) is advisable. Don't forget heat shrink tubing for waterproof joins and it is really important that an electrical 'multimeter' be purchased and a good book on how to identify and fix onboard electrical problems. (Don Casey's book on boat electrics called 'Sailboat Electrics Simplified' published by International Marine - McGraw Hill available from Boatbooks, (Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne would be a good guide). A working knowledge of how to understand and fix basic electrical faults could be the difference between disaster and success on any offshore trip. Also, don't forget the soldering wire, self fluxing is good for fast, efficient joins.

Today we are lucky to have access to really good cheap 240/12 volt invertors to run your power tools. The usual power tools can be carried onboard but we won't go into too much detail in this article about what to carry. Number one on my list however, would be an angle grinder/sander.

Hardware - This can vary enormously but should contain some of the following:

· Stainless wood screws (assorted)

· Stainless nuts, bolts and washers (assorted)

· Stainless split pins (assorted)

· Spare small size drills

· Fuses (if applicable)

· Bulbs for lights and torches

· Files, metal and assorted (needle files too)

· Iron or steel wire

· Plastic spring clips (large and small)

· G-clamps (assorted sizes)

Before you start writing.....I know that each and every person may have priorities but I have left to the very end two additions to the above so they may stick in your mind. One is a total must, the other a luxury, but nevertheless, worthy of note.

The absolute must is a set of serious bolt cutters for disengaging fallen rigging along with a good hacksaw and blades.

The luxury item that I love above all is my variable speed, Ryobi and Bosch grinder and sander. I can say they have saved me more time and effort sanding, cutting and repairing boats that I care to think of.....

Your onboard tool kit is more than a convenience, it is a total number one priority to be treated with respect and care. Ask a mate of mine, Kenny, who foolishly balanced his tool kit on the coaming whilst he unlocked a hatch after a break down at sea. After realising what the huge splash was, Kenny drifted for two days until he was discovered by chance. Kenny (whose box of tea bags went down with the tools) ruefully recalls that "Most people don't realise you can get fifteen cups of tea from a used tea bag"..... Personally, I think he was lucky, very lucky!

If you liked the cut of this article and would like Terry to write one for your magazine or newsletter simply contact http://www.dolphinboatplans.com or if you would like to read similar articles go to http://www.ezinearticles.com

The Onboard Toolbox

Schwinn 420 Elliptical Trainer Best Price Discounted

Shore Power and Boat Generators

!±8± Shore Power and Boat Generators

With the growth in the number of berths, shore supplies of electricity are more readily available and boatbuilders are responding by installing shore power connections and shore power circuits into boats as a standard feature. There are obvious benefits in terms of bringing all the comforts of home on board, but there are considerable dangers if the system is poorly installed.

Electricity and water should not mix, and if they do, water will always win. With battery powered systems, if water gets to any connections or fittings, then the worst that can happen is that you have an inoperative system and a flat battery. With shore supply voltages the risks from water are much greater. The voltages used can be lethal, so a sound installation and care in its use are vital.

The concept of having mains voltage on board opens up the possibility of enjoying all the comforts of home - freezers, electric cookers, electric kettles, microwave ovens, washing machines, water heaters and television. Some of these can be enjoyed by using 12 or 24 volt systems (refrigerators, television and microwave ovens, for example) but unless the battery is being charged they can cause quite a heavy drain, which can exhaust the battery fairly rapidly. For equipment with heavier power requirements such as cookers and water heaters, there is no question of using the battery even when it is being charged because neither the battery nor the charging system would cope.

The advantage of shore power lies mainly in its higher voltage. The wattage of the equipment is the determining factor; the following gives some idea of the wattage of various items of equipment:

Boat Cookers 6000 watts
Boat Microwave ovens 1000 watts
Boat refrigerators 500 watts
Water heaters 3000 watts
Hair dryers 1000 watts

Watts = Amps x Volts, so if we have a 3000 watt water heater operating on 240 volts, this will require 12.5 amps. On 110 volts it will need just over twice that amount, but if you tried to operate the water heater on 24 volts you would need a massive 125 amps-a load which would drain the battery in under an hour and which would require heavy duty wiring the size of the starter motor cables. Using 240 volts the load is acceptable and the cable size reasonable, so if you want the full home comforts on board, then either 240 or 115 volts is the route to follow. There are two main ways of getting this voltage on board.

Shore power supply

This the easiest method because all you need is a suitable cable connected to a power point on the shore. The snag with such a system is, of course, that you can't take it with you when you go to sea, but for many people this is acceptable; they simply fit dual voltage refrigerators and microwave ovens to overcome the lack of high voltage at sea, and temporarily forgo the use of high power users like the cooker and water heater. On powerboats you can retain the use of the water heater by having a water tank which can be heated by either the shore electricity supply or from the engine cooling system. Shore power is fine so long as you operate from the same berth all the time or know that you can find a plug-in point when cruising. There is now increasing standardisation of marina power points, so that connection is easier when away from home, but going abroad can bring its problems with different sockets and different voltages.

The cable linking the boat to the shore needs to be rugged to stand up to the treatment and exposure it will receive and the current it will have to carry. It is possible to use a domestic wandering lead if it has suitable electric plugs and sockets, but this casual approach to high voltage electricity will get you into trouble sooner or later. It also means having a hatch or porthole open to bring the cable on board, so you won't want to leave the lead connected when the boat is unattended. The open hatch or port will also be a nuisance in rain and possibly a danger if water runs down the lead and into the connection box.

There is a strong move towards the standardisation of power supply sockets both on boats and at the shore connection so that you can plug wherever you are. However, different countries still have different approaches to plugs and sockets although the US 60 amp push and twist plug with flat pins is becoming the standard. In Britain BS 4343/ 16 amps and BS 4343/32 amps are still common and are quite suitable for the lower rated power supplies which are often all that is available at marinas. The US type plugs and sockets can handle higher ratings, and -though designed for 110 volts are adequate for 240 volt supplies.

Shore power cables should never have live pins. This means that the end of the cable you connect into your boat will be a socket, with the fixture on board being a plug. This may seem back to front, but the last thing you want is live pins on a plug exposed where you might touch them. Even though they are protected from rain, the connections at each end of shore supply cables should be waterproof to reduce the chance of corrosion and the risk of water running down the cable on to connection.

The shore power cable should be adequate, and well protected, for the current it has to carry. For a 16 amp current a 2.5 sq mm wire is adequate and for 32 amps, 4 sq mm. Heavy duty insulation will protect the cable where it might be trodden on on the marina pontoons. The cable should be long enough so that with movement of the boat at the berth it is not inadvertently used as a mooring line. You can make it just the right size for your regular berth, but if you cruise a lot then a longer cable, say up to 25 metres, will enable you to connect up at most marinas where a supply is available. To cope with different types of connection you should take alternative plugs with you for the shore end of the cable you connect into your boat will be a socket, with the directly into the shore end of your cable.

The location of the shore power connection on board is important. This should not be inside because you don't want to leave hatches or ports open, but even though it is a waterproof connection it will benefit from being protected. On some boats it is fitted in a small locker in the cockpit, or in the transom where stern-to mooring is common. Otherwise it is located in a semi-protected position in the cockpit. If the connection is in the open, then it should be angled downwards so that water will not run down the cable and into the connection.

Yacht Generators

A more flexible way of producing the higher shore power voltages is to have a generator on board. With marine gen sets you are completely independent and can have the use of electrically powered equipment both at sea and in harbour. To avoid having to run the generator all the time, a common arrangement is to have an installation which can be connected to the shore supply when in harbour and which can be powered by the generator when at sea or away from your home port where a shore supply may not be available. A changeover switch enables the onboard circuits to be fed from either power source and prevents feed back from one to the other.

Modern generators are mainly diesel powered generators, although the guiding rule here should be to use the same fuel as the main engine. Diesel generators tend to be noisier and produce more vibration than their petrol counterparts, but are more economical and last longer. However, noise and vibration can be critical with marine gen sets, because while you may be happy to put up with engine noise at sea, the noise of a generator running whilst stationary can disturb a quiet anchorage or upset your neighbours in a marina.

The problem of noise and vibration means that particular care has to be taken when installing boat generators. Locating it as far as possible from the accommodation will help, but the engine compartment is often under the saloon or the cockpit, which are the prime social areas on board. The normal engine compartment insulation will not absorb the noise, so it is common practice to enclose the generator in a sound box to help damp out the noise. This box can turn the generator into quite a large package, so unless it has been designed in to the boat it can be very difficult to find adequate space for a retrofit. The generator will need servicing just like the main engines, so leave space for access to all parts.

Marine generators should be flexibly mounted to reduce vibration, which involves introducing flexible sections into all the connections such as fuel lines and exhaust. The exhaust is a difficult area for boat generators; it is generally taken outside the boat to reduce the onboard noise, but it can prove offensive to neighbours who have to suffer it. Silencers can help keep the noise levels down. Another alternative is to have the option of switching the exhaust to alternative outlets so that it can be directed away from neighbouring craft.

Generators tend to be taken for granted, particularly when they are shut up in a soundproof box. Monitoring of their operation tends to be casual, so it is a sensible precaution to fit them with alarms governing water temperature, oil pressure and rpm, so that you will receive warning before the engine has major problems. Keep the generator self-contained as far as possible, including a separate fuel feed from the tank and its own starter battery. The installation should be up to the same standards as the main engines. Since the generator could be left running when there is no-one on board, an automatic shut down system should be considered if any of the monitored parameters such as pressure or temperature changes, so as to avoid expensive damage to the unit.

The size of the generator is decided in much the same way as for the DC battery system. Add up the wattage of all the equipment on board and this will give you the top consumption. Remember that there isn't a battery in the system to compensate for any temporary extra loading. Generators are normally rated in kilowatts (kW), with one kilowatt being 1000 watts. You are unlikely to have every device switched on at once, so you can probably accept a generator with a rating less than the total, but not too small otherwise you will have to go round switching equipment off before you can switch something else on, or the generator will shut down because it is overloaded.

Another reason for having a higher rated generator is that it will be better equipped to handle changes of loading. When you switch on new equipment, particularly with a high wattage, there can be a drop in voltage as the generator struggles to cope with the extra load. This is bound to be more of a problem with a smaller generator working near to capacity than a larger one. This extra loading can also be a problem where the unit being switched on has a powerful electric motor. With air conditioners, for example, when the motor cuts in, the initial loading can be two or three times the normal running load, and this extra consumption could be enough to make the generator cut out if it is working to near capacity.

As far as generator controls are concerned there are two main options, manual or automatic start. With manual start you have to activate the starter switch just like starting the main engines. With automatic start, sensors detect when a switch has been closed and automatically respond by starting the generator. This adds to the convenience of the system, but could result in the generator starting at night when a light is switched on, to the annoyance of everyone on board. Manual starting is to be preferred in that you will check the output voltage and running of the unit at start up.

All modern generators produce AC, and all high voltage equipment used on board will operate on AC. This is the same power as used at home. Much of the equipment like hair dryers, television sets, microwave ovens and refrigerators will be identical to your home appliances. AC is current which switches back and forth and it does this at a certain number of cycles per second, normally 60. This cycling rate is carefully controlled on shore at the generating station, but on board it is unlikely that the generator will be able to produce the same accurate number of cycles per second, which explains why some equipment like electric clocks and some types of tape and record player will not operate satisfactorily on board when a generator is providing the power. This matching of the cycles of AC is one of the reasons why shore power and on board generated power cannot be mixed in the same circuits. It is almost impossible to get the match perfect, and major damage could result.

Another point to watch with alternating current is the way the current flow switches from one way to the other. All shore supplies and marine gen sets will have what is termed a sine wave curve, which means that there is a gradual switch in the flow of each cycle. From a peak in one direction, the flow diminishes and then steadily builds up in the other direction. The alternative is the square wave flow, where there is a sudden transition from one direction to the other. This square wave current is produced by some convertors of DC to AC, which we will examine later. Some equipment will not operate happily on square wave AC, mainly equipment such as microwave ovens, television sets, computers and electronically controlled battery chargers.

Shore Power and Boat Generators

Low Cost Proform Elliptical Trainers Hamilton Beach Waffle Iron Top Quality

Part 1 - My Man Jeeves by PG Wodehouse (Chs 1-4)

!±8± Part 1 - My Man Jeeves by PG Wodehouse (Chs 1-4)

Part 1. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Mark Nelson. Playlist for My Man Jeeves by PG Wodehouse: www.youtube.com

Part 1 - My Man Jeeves by PG Wodehouse (Chs 1-4)

Cinemate? Series Ii Home Theater Speaker System Best Radiant Heat Floor Mats Order Now

Method and Types of Lighting For Locomotives

!±8± Method and Types of Lighting For Locomotives

In a previous article I covered the use of LEDs as the best type of lighting for locomotives. In this article I am going to go over other types of lighting that are excellent depending on the size of the head lights and tail lights of a locomotive and tender.

The LED is still the best form of lighting and will eventually take the place of Incandescent and Fluorescent lights for all lighting usage.

At the present some engines light fixtures are too small to handle an LED. A good example is the 0-6-0 switch engine. In general the light fixture for the headlight does not have the room or capacity to handle an LED. To compensate the problem it is suggested that the modeler use a 1.5V 30mA 1.2 Dia. Incandescent Lamp - Clear with a 560-Ohm Resistor ½ Watt, 5% Tolerance. The alternative is to use either a 12 or 14 Volt 30mA 1.7mm Dia. Incandescent Lamp - Clear.

Another way to install lighting in steam locomotives is to do the following. Using fiber optics as the medium for transmitting light from a light source to the intended light fixture reduces the size needed for the light fixture and allows for a smaller hole to be drilled into the light fixture.

By installing an LED inside of the engine and the tender and then running a fiber optic into the light fixture will give you the light desired. The installation of the LED should include a cylindrical cover such as heat shrinkable tubing set around the LED. The tubing should be approximately 1/8 of an inch from the face of the LED to the end of the tubing. You will have to determine how long the tubing should be to keep it fastened to the LED. (1/8" plus length) Insert the fiber optic in the tubing placing the fiber optic against the face of the LED. Glue, with clear plastic glue, the fiber optic in place at the entrance to the heat shrinkable tubing. Tape the LED assembly to the inside of the smoke box or at the inside back end of the tender.

Leave yourself enough length of fiber optic to run the fiber optic through the smoke box wall or tender wall and into the light fixture. Make sure the fiber optic barely if any extends beyond the back of the light fixture. Glue it in place using metal/plastic clear glue. It is recommended that you place a small drop of glue at the back of the light fixture once the fiber optic is in place. Make sure that you install a lens on the light fixture once the fiber optic is glued in place.

Method and Types of Lighting For Locomotives

Home Safety Boxes Buy Online Crosman 1088 Best Best Prices Upright Pianos